Thursday, October 28, 2010

Defending the Hermit Kingdom

"This kind of lifestyle is worth protecting"
-George Bush 2001
Is comfort the enemy of creativity?  I’m currently 3 months into my second "season" of planet Korea and I'm wondering how much longer I'll remain a part of this "Hermit Kingdom"?  As of now I can't think of a reason to leave. This ultimately worries me.  I often wonder if I’ve become too comfortable. A few other questions to come mind as well; When my time is "finsihee" here, will I miss the strange backwardness of Korea?  More importantly have I become a part of the strange backwardness of Korea?  To quote Neil Young “Am I too far gone?"  Why does this worry me?  Well one should never let one’s own moral compass go unchecked for long. The world changes too fast. The worst thing is to become stagnant.  


The national past time of Korea
On a  pragmatic level, it’s true that Korea is the best place for me; for the time being.  Yes, at times I’m out of my comfort zone, but more often than not I find myself thrown into very pleasant circumstances.  Aside from all the cultural differences, and borderline xenophobia, Korea does have its perks.  Its' an easygoing gig with a comfortable lifestyle (thanks to an overgenerous salary). Top it off with the fact that you have no other responsibilities, a free place to live, and way too much free time. Jackpot, right?


Well, from the outside looking in it may seem absurd.  For example, the tourist on the other hand would be severely disappointed, that is unless of course they love cabbage museums and a junior varsity version of Japan. The typical backpacker probably wouldn’t enjoy the fact that the current conventional wisdom here is dictated by K-pop and ignorant stereotypes. Why deal with that when you can go to Kao San Road or Boracay? Then of course  any visitor should always take in consideration the wild card of being attacked by an ajumma on the subway. 


Yes, the hermit kingdom isn't for everyone, but it never really claimed to be in the first place.  Korea is a strange little anomaly, because it chooses to be a strange little anomaly. It's not going to change for you or for me. In a way, you have to respect that about them.  If you want tourism go to Thailand, if you want beaches go to the Philippines (or stay in Thailand) if you want chaos go to China.

 Looking back I realized that part of the reason I’d chosen to stay was because almost no one else would. I don't love everything about Korea, and I  certainly don't hate it.  Here, I'm always entertained and at times fascinated.  In a sense it's just like watching The Twilight Zone. It's weird, it's cheesy, it's sometimes awesome, and just when you think you have it all figured out, they thrown in a twist that completely blows your mind. 

Right now I'm comfortable. So should I exchange comfort for creativity or is creativity as overrated as Kimchi?  Until I've had my fill, I'll be here, in The Twilight Zone, defending the Hermit Kingdom



Friday, October 8, 2010

맛있은: The many foods of Korea

 After discovering a story from the Korean Herald concerning the 7 gross foods of Korea ( as chosen by their foreign staff)  I read the article (which can be found here) and was surprised to find that I've tasted 5 of the 7 chosen dishes.  After feeling a nice sense of accomplishment and reminiscence of the actual experiences of eating these foods I decided to document the story's behind the dishes themselves; from my point of view. 
Once again many thanks  to the Korean Herald and their foreign staff for inspiring me to write/re-write this interesting take on the foods of Korea.



1st Silkworm larva (번데기)
This was one of the worst foods I've ever had. It's a big hit with the older crowd, and sold on the streets in many places in Seoul. My school obviously convinced me to try it. I think they had good intentions because they seem to love that stuff, but I almost threw up.




    2nd  Chicken feet (닭발) 
Rachel (my GLS friend from Cyprus & best 친구 here in Korea) and I accidentally had this one night in Seoul.  Back before my Korean reading ability was good, I convinced her to  randomly point to something on the menu and have sort of a "Korean roulette dinner".  What we pointed to unknowingly, was this....  Now, to be honest It wasn't bad, but that's because we thought it was fried squid/octopus tentacles, after about 5 minutes of us chomping on the unfamiliar texture, I realized that what I was chewing was cartilage and what we had ordered was chicken feet. After figuring this out I couldn't eat anymore. Looking back I can't believe it took us this long to figure it out. I  mean after all they are covered in an orange sauce and once you really pick one up, it look exactly like a chicken's foot.



    #3 Live octopus (산낙지)







Old Boy (2003):  A famous Korean movie


I thought about writing this  yesterday because I just had this dish again last night.  The staff at my school had a huge celebration last night, and for dinner one of the main courses was live octopus. (the other main dish was live shrimp).  I've only had this 3 other times in Korea and each time its been with a large group of people. It's a fairly expensive dish, and one that many people in Korea believe is a delicacy. True story: last night I almost died from eating this. You see, the hardest part about eating this is  that fact that they are always moving and wiggling around. Whether its crawling off the plate, or inside your mouth. Last night I ate a pretty big piece and tried to wash it down with some beer; However it suctioned part of itself to the roof of my mouth. This made for a very strange scene. I had half of it down my throat but the rest was stuck to the top of my mouth, add to the fact that my mouth was full of beer and I couldn't open it or beer would come spewing out. After panicking and gagging but not trying to draw to much attention to myself, I spit the beer into my cup, and had to quickly reach into my mouth and pull the thing off, then drag it out from down in my throat.( think of how a clown or magician pulls out  some string or cloth)  Pretty gross right?  Well,that's the story of how I almost died yesterday from eating a live octopus.


Here is a video of us eating  live octopus from last thanksgiving


(thanks to Mark & Andie for providing the video)




  # 4 Sundae (순대)
I was presented with this dish during the "ceremony" where I  decided to re-sign my contract for a 2nd year. This dish is also another big favorite with the older crowd. A co- worker told me that it was big honor to be presented with this from my principal. We had some drinks and ate this as a way of my school saying thank you for staying in Korea again. This wasn't too bad, but If they are going to try to get me to stay a third year, they are going to need to chose something else besides pig intestines.  
   # 5 Bosintang (보신탕)






 
Last but not least, Bosintang. (aka dog soup).  Now in all honestly I was curious about trying it. There was something about being in a 1st world country like Korea and eating something that is usually (these days) only found in 3rd world places that fascinated me. One of my drinking buddy's at my school is an older Korean man. He was a big fan of this stuff. One night over many drinks he promised to take me out to a place nearby that has this dish let me experience it. Well weeks went by and I forgot about his promise, until a random weekday when  he came into my classroom and reminded me. Contrary to my assumption,the restaurant was not a sketchy hole in a wall. In fact it was a very famous and nice  looking place that I always pass by on the way to work.  My friend told me how this place was one of the few places our area that had bosintang. The weird part is that it's not advertised on the menu, and there was a bit of hesitation from the waitress when me friend asked for it. (mostly because he was with a "waygook" aka foreigner aka me) After some more dialogue between the two, the lady put us in a separate room, away from the public eating space, and served it up to us.  I was sketched out of my mind about the whole process, and couldn't help think of my own dog Max. It was really sad, and strange. I've never been that emotionally involved about a meal in my entire life. On the bright side this dish cost around 50 US dollars  (for 2 people). I was happy about that because I feel like the high price may deter many of the other people away from this dish. Also I felt more comfortable eating it for such a high price.. as opposed to 3 dollar dog night in the back of some Korean alley.

I hope this provides you with a little more insight concerning the strange little planet know as Korea .